Friday, May 27, 2011

Traffic and Cows

Traffic is something else in India. For one, everyone drives on the wrong side of the road, and the driving wheel is on the wrong side of the car. Secondly, all of the main  roads have anywhere from 2 to 4 lanes; however, these few lanes become lanes of 5 to 7 as a result of small vehicles and people trying to quickly weave their way out of traffic.

Although there are some cars in Baroda and many motorcyles, the majority of traffic in Baroda is public, consisting of buses and rickshaws. You have to  heckle your way into both of these. Rickshaws in particular are a hassle, as it seems every rickshaw driver's goal is to screw. They try to overcharge you, and even when you point out their nonsense, they sometimes try to get you to pay them a slightly lower overcharged rate. It's a good thing I speak Gujurati, as rickshaw drivers try even harder to exploit Rachel, Andy, and other only English speaking international interns. Although each rickshaw comes with a meter, the drivers here do their best not to drive you using these, as they would be receive less money. Unless you are lucky, only after of minutes of arguing and/or heckling with the rickshaw driver will you get a fair rate like that which the meter would charge you. Trying to hail down rickshaws to take you from place to place at a fair rate is perhaps the most agitating part of my experience thus far.

The noise made by vehicles honking in India is unparallel to anywhere else in the world I have ever been. Honks for one are not uniform. Bicyclers have bells, and rickshaws have horns ranging from a low squak to a high squeak. Cars usually have low pitched horns, motorcycles higher pitched, and bus horns include what sounds like a elephant under duress (among other strange noises).

Traffic lights in Baroda are few and far between, but those that are in place are ignored. There are many traffic circles here, where vehicles will meet loudly and then slowly make their way in the appropriate direction. Driving into oncoming traffic (on the same side of the road as traffic going the other way) is also not uncommon here, although you will be honked at.

Pedestrians can cross the street at their own will (danger). Vehicles will not stop for you, but they will slow down and honk at you if you get close to them as you are crossing the street. If you are even slightly hesitant, do not/wait to cross the street here.

Cows reign supreme here. They poop and pee wherever they please. They cross the street whenever they want, and traffic accommodates to them. Just the other day on my way to work, a herd of them were in the middle of the main road; all vehicles were at a standstill beeping at them for about five minutes until they finally walked across. I've learned that if you shout "Gae, gae, gae" (sounds like guy, guy, guy, and means cow, cow, cow), cows will look and maybe come your way. 

Monday, May 23, 2011

Fun Fair

A couple of days ago, I visited the 'state fair' of Baroda.

The state fair was extremely similar to that in the US. The food served wasn't unique like the Krispy Kreme burgers of the US fairs, but it was equally unhealthy and we were advised not to eat it. The fairgrounds were also dirt grounds, like those in America, but probably cleaner. Heck, if asked to judge the cleanliness of both countries based on the state of their fairgrounds I'd probably say India was a good deal cleaner than the US.

The rides at this fair were also similar to those of American state fairs. They had a ferris wheel, (although this one was probably the fastest ferris wheel I had ever been on), a swinging ship, a scrambled eggs (called Break Dance, this was by far the best ride here), and a lot of similar kiddie rides. As Andy mentioned at the fair, the rides looked like they had been pieced together by duct tape. Everything creaked, and I felt like each ride was going to fall apart while I was on it. Luckily, nothing came apart, and we all enjoyed ourselves and left safe and sound.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Me, the Basketball coach

I switched jobs and homes in the past 24 hours. I am now living with Andy at my relatives' place. Meanwhile, they have made me, of all people, a basketball coach. Now, if you do not know already, Indians, compared to all other peoples of the world, are absolutely atrocious at basketball. So bad, in fact, that me, Karan Pandya, can be of good use to them.

A large reason why Indians are so poor at basketball is because of the lack of facilities. The Balbhavan Society, which is where I work, has facilities which many college universities do not have. Even so, they have just one basketball court. In addition to five tennis courts, there are a number of badminton courts, table tennis tables, and cricket grounds. But there is just one basketball court, and just one basketball coach. Basketball is taught 4.5 hours a day, in four different sessions. Each session has from 20 to 35 people. One basketball court is not large enough an area for 30 people to have a legitimate practice, and thus their skill and basketball capabilities show.

A MONKEY JUST POSTED UP LIKE 5 FEET AWAY FROM ME

Another potential reason for Indians being bad at basketball is their lack of stamina. I had them run one suicide to start practice last night a good portion of them were walking back tired towards the end, or not bending down to touch each line. When playing a full court game, I've noticed that even the elder players (16-18 years in age) are not playing defense and instead standing around mid court waiting for a long outlet pass from their teammate.

For my first day as a basketball coach, I ran some simple passing drills, and then had them play Knock-Out, a game they had never heard of but loved. Afterwards, each session divided up into teams of five, and played one another  for about 10 minutes.

Two monkeys hopped the fence in the middle of one of the games, and posted up at mid court, turning their heads from side to side watching as the players were cracking up at what they saw. Better yet, three security guards with sticks had to run at them to force them to finally leave the court. 

Friday, May 20, 2011

My Job

So far in Baroda, I have been coaching tennis to children at the Balbhavan Society. The older tennis players are state (Gujurat), and even nationally ranked players. The two head coaches here have tennis coaching degrees in India that only about 15 other people in India have, and they mainly coach the elder players, many of which are much better than me at tennis. There are about four assistant coaches, including myself, who are responsible for training and developing the younger players. I run simple ball drills and fitness exercises with these younger kids, and some of the elder kids. I noticed that the tennis players here were equally as good as American tennis players at ball drills, but their fitness abilities--especially with the younger kids--were significantly lacking compared to that in the US.

In addition to coaching tennis, I also play matches against some of the elder players. These guys take all matches, even those in practice, extremely seriously. They play each point competitively, and hit some great shots. According to the head coaches, they are all preparing for a national tournament taking place here in about 2 weeks now. 

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

American Music in Baroda

The AIESECers in Baroda are huge fans of popular US music. The American songs they listen to however, are a few months behind the current popular music in the US.

Songs I've heard being played include Dynamite (Taio Cruz), Right Round (Flo Rida), Fireflies, Airplanes (B.o.b), and Tik Tok (Kesha)

When they played Tik Tok, the office altogether sang out loud the 'i'm talking about everybody getting crunk, crunk, boys tryna touch my junk, junk' part of the song

I've also noticed that the AIESECers in Baroda are especially huge fans of "Hotel California" (the Eagles), and Enrique Iglesias's music ('I Like It' and 'Tonight Im Loving You'  in particular) 

Work and Indian Tendencies

The Indians keep asking me about WWE here..apparently watching it is pretty big here

They also think that all American students have boyfriends/girlfriends. Every one of the Baroda AIESECers have asked Andy, Rachel, and I about current and past relationships.

Just started working yesterday...I have to coach tennis for about 5 to 6 hours a day. Practice begins at about 7 am and runs until 10 am. It then resumes at about 5 pm or so, and ends around 8. The hours kinda suck as the rest of the interns begin their day around 9 or 10 am and end by 4 or 5 pm, but it beats playing tennis in the afternoon, when its probably 110 degrees Fahrenheit everyday.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Day 4

I've been up since 4:30 am as its too hot to fall back asleep. At about 9:30 am there was a soccer game between different departments of AIESEC that Andy and I took part in. I was exhausted in about five minutes, as it was blistering hot. After soccer,  all the AIESECers took us to a roadside shop where we had Indian Chai (tea). We later went to the first restaurant in Baroda with A/C. It felt like paradise for the hour and a half we sat here as the A/C was pumping and we were eating great food for a cheap price.

We then roamed the city for some time. Cows were everywhere as well as stray dogs. We had sugarcane juice and got local phones. A group of AIESECers then took Andy and I to the Tower area of Baroda, where there were many shops and markets as well as a huge courtroom and Lord Shiva's statue.

There is no real shower where we have been living. There is, more or less, a small bucket you fill up with water and pour on yourself. There is also neither a standard American toilet or toilet paper. Instead theres a hole in the ground. 

Day 3

I awoke early the next morning to show Andy and Rachel a little of Worli prior to our train trip to Baroda at 1:35 pm. They noted that there was a lot of dog barking going on in the middle of the night, and that they liked the seaside view through the balcony in my cousin's apartment. I took them around a path along the sea in Bombay. We walked around for about a kilometer, taking pictures and watching the sea, oncoming traffic, and the lives of those around us.

After eating a large meal, we were driven to the train station in Mumbai. I witnessed there for the first time the rush to get on one of the trains traveling regionally around India. It was a general boarding call, and people were shouting, and pushing one another to try and get the last couple of seats on a long distance traveling train. The scene was chaotic to say the least, and I was slightly taken aback. Apparently the rush for local trains is even greater, as people end up crammed within the general boarding bogeys or with parts of the body hanging off the train.

The train we boarded was air conditioned, and trip to Baroda was 6 hours long. There were about five stops along the way, for about three minutes apiece. We met AIESEC Baroda upon arrival in Baroda. From here we had to carry all of our heavy luggage up two flights of stairs, over a bridge, and down two flights of stairs. An exasperating experience to say the least, we then stacked all nine of our bags and our selves into the back seat of a rickshaw. Needless to say, I was stuck in the middle of Andy and Rachel, and could not see anything but bags or Andy or Rachel all the way to the AIESEC office.

Here we stored some of our luggage, and met the AIESECers in Baroda, all of whom were friendly and helpful. Being Gujurati (Baroda is a part of the state of Gujurat, where most people speak and are called Gujurati), they all introduced themselves and spoke to me in English and Gujurati. For some reason, each of them called me by my first and last name (Karan Pandya-with an indian accent of course). We all went to eat at a Chinese place (was average in terms of taste).

Most of the AIESECers in Baroda smoked cigarettes, which was quite surprising to me.

Andy and I traveled around Baroda after dinner. The both of us were driven around on a tiny moped/motorcycle with four total bags. Needless to say, space was limited as we were all squished. Seeing the nightlife was a lot of fun, as one of the AIESECers took us to some of his favorite spots. Having visited India before, I was used to riding around in a motorcycle. I could tell that Andy was surprised by this, but it seemed like he was enjoying himself as we roamed squished together around Baroda.

We would spend the first couple of nights at this AIESECer, Nilay's house. He took us there after showing us around, and we prepared for bed. Unfortunately, this house had no A/C units, and the fan was blowing/recirculating hot air. The windows were opened to bring in some cooler air (not cold) but along with the air came mosquitos. Until I turned the lights off, these guys would not stop bothering me. After a good deal of time, I fell asleep only to wake about about 3 to 4 hours later, unable to fall asleep due to the heat for the rest of the night. 

Day 2: Mumbai

I awoke the next morning to my 1-year old niece, who was quietly watching me as she was getting ready for a shower. I spent the day eating fresh mangoes and other tasty Indian food, playing with my 7-year old niece, and taking a long afternoon nap. My niece, who loves jokes and riddles, asked me dozens, including various knock knock jokes. We played Pictionary afterward for a couple of hours. Having being born and raised in India, she was fluent in English, Gujurati, and Hindi. We talked at times in all three languages.

My cousin and his wife, who run an architectural design company in Mumbai, went to work around 8 am, and my aunt left for work around 10:30 am, after preparing lunch for myself and her two granddaughters. Everyone returned home around 8 pm, and we ate dinner, made by their two servants, shortly thereafter. The dinner consisted of a classic Gujurati Indian meal: Rotli (bread), Daal (lentils), Bhath (rice), and Shak (vegetables). Alongside this we had Mango Ras (like a mango smoothie).

After dinner, the two girls went to sleep, and my cousin and I watched the latter part of a cricket match. The two teams playing were part of the Indian Premier League, the Indian cricket equivalent of the Barclay Premier Leagues for soccer in Europe. After the match concluded, we left to pick up Andy and Rachel from the airport. These two flew from the US to India together, and would spend the night at my cousin's place. We would then take a train to Baroda, India, the next afternoon, for our summer internship.

We picked up Andy and Rachel from the airport around midnight. Having never visited India, I was curious to see their reaction to the climate and overall environment surrounding them. They seemed to really be taking things in as they arrived. For one, they found the climate very humid, and were amazed by the traffic, noise, and overall disorder in India. A three lane road, for example, was really a six lane road, where none of the cars singly occupied the designed lanes. A road sign read "Ignore signals, invite accidents", but red lights were ignored by everyone. Policemen had no cars, and did not enforce the law whatsoever. Not honking was abnormal, and people crossed the streets whenever they desired, almost ignoring oncoming traffic.

All in all, I think were quite taken aback by the disorder among them, and they went to sleep after arriving at my cousin's place. They were definitely grateful for the A/C units.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Day 1: Mumbai

After 20 hours of flying through 10 different time zones, I finally made it to Mumbai, India, early on the morning of May 13, 2011. After some trouble with baggage, I came outside of the airport at around 3 am. The glasses I was wearing instantly fogged up from the humidity as I took my first step outside of the Indian airport. I met my cousin, who lives with his mother, wife, and two kids in Worli in Mumbai soon after, and he drove me to his place, where I would stay for the next day and a half.

Driving to Worli from the airport, there were quite a few cars on the road, despite being 3 am. The weather was hot and humid, and the streets smelt and were not nearly as clean as those in the United States.

After arriving at my cousin's place, I was given a mattress to sleep on. They had window A/C units in all three of their bedrooms. I was extremely happy that this was the case because A/C units are a rarity in India. After taking a shower upon arrival, I cranked up the A/C and fell asleep almost immediately as I had hardly slept in 30 hours.